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Rude names, railways and a mass trespass – how the Peak District became a tourist attraction

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The Peak District became the UK's first national park 75 years ago, but the area has been attracting visitors for much longer.

One of the oldest tourist attractions is the Devil's Arse – one of four caves in Castleton that are accessible to the public.

"It makes a huge farting noise basically," says John Harrison, director of the site, as he explains where its name originates.

"It was always known as the Devil's Arse and then in Victorian times, with their sort of prudish outlook on life, it became offensive.

"They changed it to the Devil's Hole – which is probably worse – and then Peak's Hole and then Peak Cavern.

"When we took it on it was Peak Cavern and we changed it back to the Devil's Arse."

When the cave floods, the rising and falling of the water sucks through air and makes a sound uncannily similar to flatulence.

"It can flood two or three times a year – sometimes more, it depends on the weather – but it's happening more often at the minute, so it's being heard more regularly," says John.

The Devil's Arse was named as one of Seven Wonders of the Peak back in 1636, in a book by philosopher Thomas Hobbes, which shows people have been visiting the cave and the wider Peak District for centuries.

"They tended to be very well-heeled gentry who'd come and stay at the likes of places like Chatsworth and be taken on a tour of the Peak District," says John.

But then railways came along in the 19th Century – including the line that connects Manchester and Sheffield, which opened in 1894 and is still known for its incredible scenery.

"That opened up the Hope Valley to mass tourism," says John.

"People could come out of the cities, out of Sheffield, out of Manchester, and have a day out in the Peak District and get home all in good time."

Railway companies promoted the idea of visiting the Peak District for leisure, but people could not access as much of the area as they can today.

This was because much of it was privately owned, and many landowners did not want people rambling through.

Tensions were highlighted in 1932 by the mass trespass of Kinder Scout, moorland kept exclusively for grouse shooting by its owner, the Duke of Devonshire.

Organised by the British Workers' Sports Federation, the aim of the mass trespass was to fight against "the finest stretches of Moorlands being closed to us", according to a notice encouraging people to join.

Hundreds of people took part, and five were imprisoned for between two and six months after being charged with unlawful assembly and breach of the peace.

The protest is often cited as being pivotal in the fight for roaming rights and the eventual creation of national parks, while some say its impact has been overstated.

In reality, many people and groups were campaigning for greater access to the countryside around the same time.

"Even if you go back to the beginning of the 20th Century, there were a lot of people who were outdoor enthusiasts and wanted access to the countryside," says Debbie Stockwell, executive director of National Parks England, which is the collective voice of 10 national parks.

"But it really got some momentum behind it in the late 1930s and into the 1940s.

"So basically there was a group that came together in the mid-1930s to campaign for national parks in the UK. They had seen national parks being created in the US and they wanted something similar here."

This group included the Ramblers' Association, the Youth Hostels Association, and the Campaign to Protect Rural England.

World War Two then began in 1939, and the end of the war in 1945 provided significant impetus.

"Coming out of the war there was a whole programme of activity around recovery and regeneration of the nation, and in that package of things, that led to the creation of the NHS as well, there was the proposal for national parks to be created," says Debbie.

"It was described at the time as the Natural Health Service."

The National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act was introduced in 1949, and this led to the creation of national parks.

The first was the Peak District on 17 April 1951, followed by the Lake District on 9 May that same year, Eryri (Snowdonia) months later on 18 October and Dartmoor on 30 October.

This legislation set out two key purposes for national parks:

However, people did not suddenly have the right to roam wherever they liked, as is sometimes assumed.

"The 1949 act didn't actually open up any land," says Kate Conto, policy and public affairs manager at the Ramblers, formerly known as the Ramblers' Association.

"It gave a mechanism for the national parks to try and get agreements with landowners to open up land.

"And the Peak District National Park tried that and they got a small amount, but the 1949 act didn't really do what the people who introduced it had hoped."

The 1949 act did, however, create the "definitive map" of the public rights of way network in England and Wales.

These are the footpaths, bridleways and byways that people are legally entitled to use, even if it means wandering across a farmer's field or other private land.

The map made it clearer for people to understand where they were legally allowed to walk in the Peak District, and other national parks.

"The 1949 act was really helpful and foundational but there was more to be done after that," says Kate.

As a result, the Countryside and Rights of Way Act was eventually created in 2000, giving people the legal right to roam over much more countryside, including in the Peak District.

"You can see it today on OS maps in a yellow wash," says Kate.

"It gave people the right of access to mapped areas of mountain, moor, heath, down and common land in England and Wales.

"So in Derbyshire around 525 sq km of land was opened up for access, and that's an area two times the size of Birmingham."

The National Trust – the heritage and conservation charity founded in 1895 – has also been key in opening up much of the Peak District to the public.

It is now the biggest landowner in the national park, and looks after sites including Mam Tor, Kinder Scout, Dovedale, Thorpe Cloud and Winnats Pass.

The man in charge is Craig Best, general manager for the National Trust in the Peak District.

"Over the years we've acquired land to protect it for the nation," he says.

"Currently we own and look after 13% of the national park, which amounts to about 20,000 hectares."

Among the charity's sites is the Longshaw Estate, which was once threatened with development but saved by the campaigner Ethel Haythornthwaite.

Ethel was widowed at the age of 23 when her husband was killed in combat during World War One.

The story goes that Ethel's family encouraged her to take restorative walks, and she became passionate about the countryside.

She founded a group that later became the Peak District and South Yorkshire branch of the Campaign to Protect Rural England (CPRE), which helped raise funds to buy the Longshaw Estate. It was gifted to the National Trust in 1931.

"Ethel was instrumental in securing Longshaw for the nation," says Craig.

Ethel was also part of the campaign to establish the Peak District as a national park, and a hill walking challenge called the Ethels was created in her honour in 2021.

As well as improving access to the Peak District, the National Trust does lots of work to improve it for nature.

Kinder Scout – once the battleground for roamers' rights – is one example.

"We've been looking after it since 1982, and we've been investing a lot of resource to restore the peat there," says Craig.

"That investment has resulted in transformational change for Kinder Scout. You're more likely to see more wildlife.

"Bats are returning to that landscape simply because there's more vegetation. There's more insects for them to feed on."

While the National Trust encourages access to the Peak District, Craig says some visitors can have a negative impact.

"We would ask people not to have barbecues or fires, because

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The Papers: Original 'Labour leadership rivals circle' and 'Golden boys' on Baftas red carpet

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Chris Mason: Another crunch moment for Starmer as he pleads with Labour MPs not to topple him

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It feels like the prime minister has to give the speech of his life today.

Those within the Labour Party who want to see him succeed acknowledge that you can't change everything in one speech.

But it is clearly imperative for Sir Keir Starmer to try to calm down a party that is hurting and anxious.

Many Labour MPs have spent the weekend observing the politically scorched earth around them locally – their friends and colleagues in local and devolved government wiped out. There are fraught emotions and there is anger.

And for the last few days now there has been the drip, drip of revolt, with Labour MP after Labour MP coming out publicly to say Starmer has to go.

With every one, a little more of the prime minister's authority drains away.

Incidentally, don't underestimate what a big deal it is for any individual MP to go over the top and say their boss should go – not least because, for now at least, those that have done so are a tiny fraction of the total number of Labour MPs.

And it was his name up in lights as their leader when many of them won their seats for the first time, and often in parts of the country where Labour rarely if ever win. So to say now, out loud, that you think he is a dud is a big deal.

Wherever you look in the Labour Party right now there are knots of anxiety.

Firstly, there is anxiety in Downing Street, of course. They are acutely aware of what is at stake.

Secondly, there is anxiety among the potential challengers, weighing up if, when or whether to go for it. Timing can be everything: get it right, and the premiership can be yours. Get it wrong, and what might be your only chance to be prime minister is gone.

Thirdly, there is anxiety among the many, many Labour MPs keeping their heads down and who really don't want the prime minister to leave right now, nor for there to be a leadership contest.

Then there are those who would like Mayor of Greater Manchester Andy Burnham to be Labour's next leader and so don't want a contest right now – because he needs time to firstly find and then win a Westminster seat, having been blocked from standing in one just a few months ago.

So what happens after the speech tomorrow? How do Labour MPs react? Does Catherine West, the former minister who has said she is willing to challenge the prime minister to try to force a contest, decide to back down, or press ahead?

Does the prime minister manage to put people off challenging him, at least for now?

Or is there a flood of anguish that leaves his position untenable and tempts one of the challengers to go for it?

Health Secretary Wes Streeting, in particular, faces a massive call in the next couple of days. He has said he won't challenge Sir Keir, but is prepared to make his case if it becomes clear the prime minister is a goner.

So does he go for it, or not? Some who would like to see him replace Sir Keir think this might be his very best chance, before Burnham can get back to Westminster.

It is worth emphasising that it is not easy to dislodge a sitting prime minister who doesn't want to budge and, up until now at least, Sir Keir has given every indication he wants to stick around.

But what a moment he confronts and his party confronts.

The Labour Party is in a glum swirl right now, where no one can be certain what will happen next.

Whatever does – or doesn't – happen will have consequences for us all.

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Ailing Iran Nobel laureate given bail and hospital transfer

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Iranian human rights campaigner Narges Mohammadi has been transferred from jail to a Tehran hospital amid concern over her deteriorating health.

Iranian authorities granted Mohammadi "a sentence suspension on heavy bail", a foundation run by her family said on Sunday.

Last week Mohammadi's family and supporters warned she could die in prison after suffering two suspected heart attacks earlier this year.

Mohammadi, 54, was awarded the 2023 Nobel Peace Prize for her activism against female oppression in Iran and promoting human rights.

After pleas from her family for her to be transferred from prison, Mohammadi is "now at Tehran Pars Hospital to be treated by her own medical team", ​the Narges Mohammadi Foundation said in a statement.

She had spent 10 days hospitalised in Zanjan in northern Iran, where she had been serving her sentence.

Mohammadi's Paris-based husband said "she is not in a favourable general condition" and that "her status remains unstable", in a statement over the weekend.

The activist is believed to have lost about 20kg (three stone) while in prison, and has difficulty speaking and is barely recognisable, according to her lawyer Chirinne Ardakani.

In 2021, Mohammadi began serving a 13-year sentence on charges of committing "propaganda activity against the state" and "collusion against state security", which she denied.

In December 2024, she was given a temporary release from Tehran's notorious Evin prison on medical grounds.

Mohammadi was arrested last December for making "provocative remarks" at a memorial ceremony, Iranian authorities said at the time. Her family said she was taken to hospital after being beaten during the arrest.

In early February, Mohammadi was sentenced by a Revolutionary Court to an additional seven-and-a-half years in prison after being convicted of "gathering and collusion" and "propaganda activities", her lawyer said.

Last month, Mohammadi's brother Hamidreza said his sister had been found unconscious by fellow inmates at Zanjan prison after suffering a suspected heart attack.

The foundation's statement on Sunday said "a suspension is not enough" and that the human rights activist requires "permanent, specialised care".

"We must ensure she never returns to prison to face the 18 years remaining on her sentence," it read.

"Now is the time to demand her unconditional freedom and the dismissal of all charges. No human and women's rights activists should ever be imprisoned for their peaceful work," it said.

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